Tilla

Tilla, or tilla dozi, is worked in metal-wrapped thread: a fine core wound with flattened gold- or silver-toned metal. The critical point is that it is never pulled through the cloth the way ordinary embroidery thread is. Repeatedly passing it through the weave would strip the wrapping off the core.

Instead the thread is laid on the surface, following the drawn line, and tacked down at intervals with a fine silk stitch in a matching colour — a technique called couching. Because the metal sits proud of the fabric rather than sinking into it, tilla catches light in a way flat embroidery cannot, and the surface has a real, raised texture you can feel.

This also makes tilla heavy. Density is a design decision with a physical consequence: a broad couched band at a hem hangs and swings, while the same weight scattered across a bodice simply makes a garment tiring to wear. Restrained tilla at a neckline reads as evening wear; full tiered bands from hem to knee are bridal, and are quoted individually.

Tilla is traditionally worked on pherans, and on wedding garments across Kashmir.

Your tilla specifics: thread composition and whether it is real metal or metallised, care and tarnish guidance, weight ranges for your pieces, and commission lead times for bridal work. (placeholder copy — needs real detail)